Teenage Fashionwear

• Publication date: November 2008

The market for youth fashion, which is analysed in this report, is estimated to be worth £9.93bn at retail selling prices (rsp) at the end of 2008, an overall growth of 14.9% since 2004. Key Note defines this market as clothing, footwear and accessories for male and female consumers between the ages of 13 and 24. This is quite a long age span, but Key Note takes the view that the so-called `teenage' years have somewhat expanded, parti...

The market for youth fashion, which is analysed in this report, is estimated to be worth £9.93bn at retail selling prices (rsp) at the end of 2008, an overall growth of 14.9% since 2004. Key Note defines this market as clothing, footwear and accessories for male and female consumers between the ages of 13 and 24. This is quite a long age span, but Key Note takes the view that the so-called `teenage' years have somewhat expanded, particularly at the lower end of the spectrum, since this report was last written in 2000 (when the market was defined as those aged 15 to 24).

Interest in fashion begins at a young age — and, as this report makes clear, boundaries are blurred between what is actually manufactured for teenagers, and similar fashions that are produced for so-called `tweenagers', i.e. younger consumers. At the older end of the spectrum, as well, it is perhaps difficult to ascertain a true demarcation between youth fashion and that targeted at older generations.

However, youth fashion does have its own identity, in the sense that it springs from the tastes and concerns of a highly communications-orientated generational group. Peer identity is strong, and the promulgation of cultural ideas and influences through the media and technology in the 21st century means that no teenager is left isolated in terms of understanding what his or her age group thinks and how it defines itself — and, most importantly, what it is necessary to buy in order to feel connected with other teenagers. Influences from music, sport and politics, to some extent, all feed into the designs and styles that clothing brands promote to young buyers, particularly young male consumers. Icons from the music and fashion worlds, as well as the celebrity circles, are highly influential as fashion role models, to young women in particular. Young people now have their own social network sites online, and a large majority regularly log on to these in order to connect with and chat to other users. The sense of a shared youth community is powerfully conveyed via sites such as Bebo and MySpace.

Young consumers who are still living at home often have quite high levels of personal disposable income to use to express themselves through their choice of consumer goods — not least through fashion. Thus, there is a thriving target consumer base here of highly impressionable and demanding young men and women.

Although the youth market for clothing remains a separate fashion segment in the sense of defining taste and responding to challenging fashion trends, it also sets the pace of change for older sectors, and affects designs in product ranges in the mainstream market. As already stated, the blurring between youth and adult fashion is often the result, but the youth market adds excitement to the whole clothing market.

Young women, in particular, are also benefiting from the growth in discount retailing. Retailers such as Primark and New Look operate on a fast turnover of cheap clothing, affording young women the opportunity to change their wardrobes with much greater frequency. This enables them to think about fashion much more in terms of self-expression than previous generations may have been able to. The accessories market, for instance, is extremely strong at the current time (November 2008). The idea of dressing up basic clothing with items such as belts, scarves and jewellery is particularly appealing to young people as a form of self-expression.

As with the clothing market in general, however, the teenage clothing market (especially the female sector) has been very susceptible to falling prices. Value growth has not been strong — and, in 2007/2008 in particular, some retailers have not shown their typical strong sales. Examples of this are Next (which is popular with young buyers but has experienced a slower rate of growth than previously) and French Connection. Other retailers, such as the Arcadia Group of fashion chains (Miss Selfridge, Topshop and Topman), continue to succeed in driving demand for challenging and trendy ideas in fashion and have been rewarded with relatively healthy growth rates considering the current economic slowdown.

The challenge for both retailers and brands is to align themselves with the emotional aspirations of young men and women. Many brands make this the cornerstone of their marketing and designs. Perhaps the most salient example of this is Diesel, which pioneers unusual marketing and sponsorship investment in the art and music world. Many brands also seek to make connections between technology and fashion. Some attempt to extend their product ranges into areas such as mobile telephones, or else to use mobile technology — particularly third-generation (3G) technology — as a channel for marketing and trend discussion. Others follow the trend set by the network providers such as Virgin and Orange, in sponsoring music events and thus aligning themselves even more closely with the fashion style of icons in the music world.

If the fashion industry is to continue growing, these strategies are likely to become even more sophisticated and cross-media. Advertising beyond traditional print and television media is likely to expand further — with increased and more effective use of the Internet, in particular, in order to tap into youth concerns and to affect choices.

Clothing And Textile Industry in the United Kingdom

Executive Summary

1. Introduction

BACKGROUND

METHODOLOGY

DEFINITION

2. Strategic Overview

MARKET DYNAMICS AND SEGMENTATION

The UK Economy

Table 1: Household Final Consumption Expenditure by Selected Items at Current Prices (£m), 2003-2007

Retail Sales and the Current Economic Outlook

Population Trends and Demographics

Table 2: The UK Population by Age and Sex (million), Mid-1971 and Mid-2006

Table 3: UK Population Estimates by Age and Sex (000), Mid-2006

Living Arrangements

Table 4: Households in Great Britain by Number of Persons (%), 1971, 1981, 1998, 2002 and 2006

Table 5: Proportion of People in Great Britain Living Alone — 16 to 24 Year-Olds and All Adults (%), 1973, 1998, 2002 and 2006

Family Expenditure

Table 6: Usual Gross Weekly Household Income of Families in Great Britain With Dependent Children by Family Type (£ and %), 2006

Employment

Table 7: Economic Activity Among UK Adults Aged 16 or Over by Employment Status and Sex (million), Second Quarters 1992 and 2007

Specifics of the Youth Market

Table 8: UK Population Estimates for 10 to 24 Year-Olds by Age and Sex (000), Mid-2006

Working Patterns

Table 9: Socio-Economic Classification for 16 to 24 Year-Olds in Great Britain Based on Own Current or Last Job (%), 2006

Education

Table 10: Number of Students in the UK at Higher Education Institutions by Level of Study, 2006/2007

Relationships

Table 11: Marital Status of Male and Female 16 to 24 Year-Olds in Great Britain (%), 2006

Table 12: Adults Living With Their Parents by Sex and Age (%), 1991, 2001, 2002, 2005 and 2006

Attitudes and Identity

Sexuality

Body Size

Influences and a Cultural Separation From Parents

Technology and Social Networking

Other Technology and the Leisure Industry

Political Fashion

Basic Fashion and the Young Consumer

Market Size

Table 13: The Total UK Market for Clothing, Footwear and Accessories for 13 to 24 Year-Olds by Sex by Value at Current Prices (£m at rsp), 2004-2008

Figure 1: The Total UK Market for Clothing, Footwear and Accessories for 13 to 24 Year-Olds by Sex by Value at Current Prices (£m at rsp), 2004-2008

FORECASTS

Table 14: The Forecast UK Market for Clothing, Footwear and Accessories for 13 to 24 Year-Olds by Value at Current Prices (£m at rsp), 2009-2013

3. Retailer Strategies and Brand Management

MARKETING STRATEGIES

Marketing Via the Youth Culture

Music

Mobile Marketing

Use of the Internet

Brand Strategy

Retailer Brands

Discount Retailer Brands

CONSUMER TRENDS

Table 15: Summary of Attitudes Towards Fashion and Branding by Sex and Age (% of respondents), August 2008

4. The Fashion Industry

INTRODUCTION

Industry Dynamics

Table 16: The Apparent UK Market for the Manufacture of Clothing by Type by Value (£m at msp), 2003-2007

The Impact of Globalisation

Table 17: Imports of Clothing and Footwear From Selected Countries of Origin by Value (£m), Year Ending August 2007

Number of Clothing Manufacturers in the UK

Table 18: Number of UK VAT-Based Enterprises Engaged in the Manufacture of Wearing Apparel and in the Dressing and Dyeing of Fur by Turnover Sizeband (£000), 2006-2008

Table 19: Number of UK VAT-Based Enterprises Engaged in the Manufacture of Wearing Apparel and in the Dressing and Dyeing of Fur by Government Office Region, 2006-2008

FASHION TRENDS

UK Designers

Youth Tribes

Fast Fashion

Textile Trends

CONSUMER TRENDS

The Popularity of Synthetic Materials Among Young Consumers

Table 20: Summary of Attitudes Towards Textiles in Fashion by Sex and Age (% of respondents), August 2008

The Retail Industry

Usage of High-Street Retailers by the Youth Market

Table 21: Demographic Analysis of Users of Leading Clothing Multiples (% of adults), 2007

Use of Department Stores

Table 22: Demographic Analysis of Users of Other Multiples Selling Clothing and/or Footwear (% of adults), 2007

Use of Supermarkets

Table 23: Demographic Analysis of Users of Supermarkets for Clothing (% of adults), 2007

The Rise of Discount Retailing

Other Retailing

eBay

Consumer Attitudes Towards Retailers

Table 24: Summary of Attitudes Towards the Retail Strategies of Clothing Outlets by Sex and Age (% of respondents), August 2008

Table 25: Summary of Attitudes Towards Clothing Retailers' Image by Sex and Age (% of respondents), August 2008

5. The UK Clothing Market

OVERVIEW

The Performance of Retail Sales

Table 26: The Total UK Clothing and Footwear Market by Value at Current Prices (£m at rsp), 2004-2008

Retail Prices

Table 27: Retail Price Indices for Clothing and Footwear (1987=100 and 2003=100), 2003-2007

WOMENSWEAR

Key Trends

Blurring of Definitions

Body-Size Technology

More Revealing Styles, and Underwear as Overwear

Clothing for a Range of Occasions

Market Size

Table 28: The UK Market for Women's, Girls' and Infants' Clothing by Value at Current Prices (£m at rsp), 2004-2008

Major Players

MENSWEAR

Key Trends

Casual Dress Sense

Multi-Purpose Sportswear and Jeans

Designer Labels Are More Important

Market Size

Table 29: The UK Market for Men's and Boys' Clothing by Value at Current Prices (£m at rsp), 2004-2008

Major Players

SPORTSWEAR

Key Trends

Globalised Sourcing and Branding

Consolidation in Branding and Sports Retailing

Sports Participation and Sports Leisurewear

Discounting and a Blurring of Boundary Definitions

Table 30: Sportswear's Share of the Total Clothing and Footwear Markets by Value (%), 2003-2007

Sportswear is Integral to Male Fashion

Market Size

Table 31: The UK Market for Sportswear by Value at Current Prices (£m at rsp), 2004-2008

Major Players

Table 32: Leading Suppliers of Sports Clothing and Footwear by Turnover ($, E and £), 2007

Nike Inc

Adidas AG

Other Manufacturers

Major Sports Retailers

JEANS

Key Trends

Discount Versus Designer

Table 33: Purchasing of Jeans in Great Britain in the Past 12 Months† by Amount Spent by Sex, Age, Social Grade and Region (% of adults), 2007

Market Size

Major Players

FOOTWEAR

Key Trends

An Increasingly Imported Market

Branding Attracts Young Buyers

Casual Shoes Are Here to Stay

Fashion Shifts Are Unremitting

Market Size

Table 34: The UK Market for Footwear by Value at Current Prices (£m at rsp), 2004-2008

Major Players

C&J Clark Ltd

Company Structure

Financial Results

Other General Footwear Companies

ACCESSORIES

Key Trends

High Point of a Cyclical Market

The Role of Designer Brand Collections

Specialist Retailers Expand the Market

Market Size

Table 35: The UK Market for Clothing Accessories by Value at Current Prices (£m at rsp), 2004-2008

Major Players

Consumer Trends

Table 36: Summary of Purchasing Habits With Regard to Clothing Accessories by Sex and Age (% of respondents), August 2008

6. Advertising

MAIN MEDIA ADVERTISING EXPENDITURE

Table 37: Main Media Advertising Expenditure by Clothing Manufacturers and Clothing Retailers by Sector (£000), Year Ending June 2008

Product Advertising

Jeans

Table 38: Main Media Advertising Expenditure on Jeans by Brand (£000), Year Ending June 2008

Retail Advertising

Table 39: Main Media Advertising Expenditure by Selected Clothing Retailers (£000), Year Ending June 2008

7. Consumer Dynamics

INTRODUCTION

ATTITUDES TOWARDS BRANDS AND DESIGNERS

`Latest' Fashion is the Key

Table 40: Importance of Having the Latest Fashions (% of respondents), August 2008

Men Are More Brand-Orientated

Table 41: Importance of Branding and Design of Clothing (% of respondents), August 2008

Table 42: Those Who Buy Designer Clothing More Often Than Clothing From the Average High-Street Retailers (% of respondents), August 2008

PREFERENCES REGARDING TYPES OF FABRICS

More Than Half of All Consumers Say That The Types of Textiles Used Are `Very Important' to Them

Table 43: Importance of the Types of Textiles Used to Make Garments (% of respondents), August 2008

Popularity of Modern Synthetic Fabrics is Highest Among Younger Consumers

Table 44: Those Who Like Clothes Made From Modern Synthetic Fabrics (% of respondents), August 2008

Under-25s Are the Least Inclined to Like Clothes Made From Natural Fabrics

Table 45: Those Who Like Clothes Made From Natural Fabrics (% of respondents), August 2008

ATTITUDES TOWARDS RETAILERS

Retailing Strategy

Teenagers Are the Most Inclined to Associate Retailers' Success With Frequent Changes of Product Lines

Table 46: Attitudes Towards Retailers' Frequency of Changing Their Lines of Merchandise (% of respondents), August 2008

Visuals Are Important

Table 47: Importance of Store Layout and Type of Merchandise on Offer When Deciding Where to Buy Clothes (% of respondents), August 2008

Size is Not Important

Table 48: Opinions About Range of Choice in Larger Retailers Versus Smaller Retailers (% of respondents), August 2008

Retailers' Image

The High Street

Table 49: Those Who Like to Buy Clothes From a Retailer With a Modern Image (% of respondents), August 2008

Table 50: Opinion That Teenage Fashions Are Well Represented by the High-Street Retailers (% of respondents), August 2008

US Influences

Table 51: Those Who Like American Fashion and Retailers More Than Their UK Counterparts (% of respondents), August 2008

ACCESSORIES

Table 52: Those Who Like to Buy Accessories Every Time They Purchase Clothes (% of respondents), August 2008

Table 53: Those Who Find it Convenient to Buy Clothes and Accessories From the Same Retailer (% of respondents), August 2008

8. Company Profiles

INTRODUCTION

ARCADIA GROUP LTD

Company Structure

Brand Information

Menswear

Burton and Topman

Womenswear

Dorothy Perkins

Miss Selfridge

Topshop

Marketing Strategy and Merchandising

Profitability

Table 54: Financial Results for Arcadia Group Ltd (£000 and %), Year Ending 27th August 2005, 53 Weeks Ending 2nd September 2006 and Year Ending 1st September 2007

Table 55: Financial Results for Taveta Investments Ltd (£000 and %), Year Ending 27th August 2005, 53 Weeks Ending 2nd September 2006 and Year Ending 1st September 2007

FRENCH CONNECTION GROUP PLC

Company Structure

Brand Information

Marketing Strategy and Merchandising

Profitability

Table 56: Financial Results for French Connection Group PLC (£000 and %), Years Ending 31st January 2006-2008

GAP INC

Company Structure

Brand Information

Marketing Strategy and Merchandising

Profitability

H&M HENNES & MAURITZ AB

Company Structure

Brand Information

Marketing Strategy and Merchandising

Profitability

Table 57: Financial Results for H&M Hennes & Mauritz UK Ltd (£000 and %), Years Ending 30th November 2005-2007

MARKS AND SPENCER PLC

Company Structure

Brand Information

Marketing Strategy and Merchandising

Profitability

Table 58: Financial Results for Marks and Spencer PLC (£000 and %), Years Ending 1st April 2006, 31st March 2007 and 29th March 2008

NEW LOOK RETAILERS LTD

Company Structure

Brand Information

Marketing Strategy and Merchandising

Profitability

Table 59: Financial Results for New Look Retailers Ltd (£000 and %), Years Ending 26th March 2005, 25th March 2006 and 24th March 2007

NEXT PLC

Company Structure

Brand Information

Marketing Strategy and Merchandising

Profitability

Table 60: Financial Results for Next PLC (£000 and %), Years Ending 28th January 2006, 27th January 2007 and 26th January 2008

PRIMARK STORES LTD

Company Structure

Brand Information

Marketing Strategy and Merchandising

Profitability

Table 61: Financial Results for Primark Stores Ltd (£000 and %), Years Ending 17th September 2005, 16th September 2006 and 15th September 2007

RIVER ISLAND CLOTHING CO LTD

Company Structure

Brand Information

Marketing Strategy and Merchandising

Profitability

Table 62: Financial Results for River Island Clothing Co Ltd (£000 and %), Year Ending 25th December 2004, 53 Weeks Ending 31st December 2005 and Year Ending 30th December 2006

SIGNIFICANT BRANDS IN THE UK TEENAGE FASHION MARKET

Diesel

Levi Strauss

9. The Future

ECONOMIC FORECASTS

Gross Domestic Product

Table 63: Forecast UK Growth in Gross Domestic Product in Real Terms (%), 2008-2012

Inflation

Table 64: Forecast UK Rate of Inflation (%), 2008-2012

Employment

Table 65: Forecast Actual Number of Unemployed Persons in the UK (million), 2008-2012

FUTURE TRENDS

Lifestyle Trends

Consumer Trends

The Future of the Retail Clothing Market

Retailing Trends

Branding

FORECASTS 2009 TO 2013

Table 66: The Forecast UK Market for Clothing, Footwear and Accessories for 13 to 24 Year-Olds by Sex by Value at Current Prices (£m at rsp), 2009-2013

Figure 2: The Forecast UK Market for Clothing, Footwear and Accessories for 13 to 24 Year-Olds by Sex by Value at Current Prices (£m at rsp), 2009-2013

10. Further Sources

General Sources

Government Publications

Other Sources

Bisnode Sources