The U.S. Cosmeceuticals Market

The U.S. Cosmeceuticals Market

Beneficial beauty products exploded at retail during the first years of this century to reach $16 billion in 2007. Packaged Facts forecasts $21 billion for 2012. Called “cosmeceuticals,” a descriptor first applied in the early 1990s to hardcore anti-aging serums containing alphahydroxy acids, the assortment now includes any skincare, color cosmetic or haircare item that not only beautifies, but also prevents/treats any condition or concern. That means eye shadow that reduces crow’s feet, moisturizer with sunscreen that wards off UV rays, conditioner that shields hair from air pollution and foundation that keeps cheeks hydrated and rosy.

Packaged Facts’ thoroughly updated report will inspire even the savviest health & beauty care executive to think outside the box. Sales patterns, Simmons demographic data and societal context are all plumbed in-depth, as are the competitive stances of Guthy-Renker (Proactiv), Johnson & Johnson (Neutrogena), L’Oreal (La Roche-Posay), Procter & Gamble (Olay, SK-II) and others.

Information for this report was gathered from primary, secondary and syndicated sources. Primary research involved on-site study of how cosmeceuticals are sold through retail stores and consultations with industry executives. Secondary research involved the evaluation and comparison of data from financial, marketing and retail publications, websites, company literature, government agencies and other sources. Brand share data were provided by Information Resources, Inc. (IRI), which covers the mass-market channel. Analysis of consumers’ purchase and use of cosmeceuticals is based on semi-annual surveys by Simmons Market Research Bureau. And topical data on consumers’ purchasing habits were derived from BIGresearch, which conducts monthly online surveys. 
 

Chapter 1 Executive Summary

• HIGHLIGHTS
  
  
• Introduction
  
  
  
  
  
  • Market Definition
    
    
  • A Glossary of Terms Used
    
    
  • Carbon Footprint
    
    
  • Cosmeceutical
    
    
  • Direct
    
    
  • Fair Trade
    
    
  • Green
    
    
  • HBC
    
    
  • Market vs. Category vs. Segment
    
    
  • Mass
    
    
  • Natural vs. Organic
    
    
  • Prestige and Pop Prestige
    
    
  • SKU
    
    
  • Specialty
    
    
  • Supermarket, Chain Drugstore, Mass Merchandiser
    
    
  • Sustainable (Renewable)
    
    
  • Methodology
  
  
  
  
• The Products
  
  
  
  
  
  • The Skincare Category
    
    
  • Anti-Acne Products
    
    
  • Anti-Aging Products
    
    
  • Facial Cleansers and Other Preps
    
    
  • Hand & Body Lotions
    
    
  • Home Skin-Peel and Microdermabrasion Kits
    
    
  • Moisturizers
    
    
  • Suncare
    
    
  • The Color Cosmetics (Makeup) Category
    
    
  • Eye
    
    
  • Face
    
    
  • Lip
    
    
  • The Haircare Category
    
    
  • Conditioners/Treatments
    
    
  • OTC Hair Growth Products
    
    
  • Shampoo
    
    
  • Ethnic-Specific Cosmeceuticals Mostly for African Americans
    
    
  • Popular Ingredients
    
    
  • Product Markets Related to Cosmeceuticals
  
  
  
  
• Controversial Ingredients
  
  
  
  
  
  • The Health-Aware Spot Allergens, Carcinogens, Irritants on Labels
    
    
  • Hydroquinone
    
    
  • Parabens
    
    
  • Phthalates
    
    
  • Propylene Glycol
    
    
  • Sodium Lauryl/Laureth Sulfates (SLFs)
  
  
  
  
• Regulation
  
  
  
  
  
  • Cosmetics vs. Drugs
    
    
  • Industry Representation
    
    
  • The Skin Cancer Foundation’s Seal of Recommendation
    
    
  • Natural/Organic Personal Care Products
    
    
  • Still No Standards in Effect
    
    
  • Waiting on a Draft of Standards From NSF International
    
    
  • The Bits of Regulation That Remain in Force
    
    
  • Marketers Establish OASIS (Organic and Sustainable Industry Standards)
  
  
  
  
• Summary of Report
  
  
  
  
  
  • Cosmeceuticals Shatter $16 Billion Mark in 2007
    
    
  • Skincare in Smooth Glide to $8.9 Billion
    
    
  • Makeup Category Flourishes, Valued at $3.7 Billion
    
    
  • Haircare Category Fluffs to $3.6 Billion
    
    
  • Cosmeceuticals in Rush to $21 Billion by 2012
    
    
  • Skincare to Continue Smooth Glide to $12 Billion
    
    
  • Makeup to Approach a Glowing $5 Billion
    
    
  • Haircare Defeats Commodity Image on the Way to $5 Billion
    
    
  • Table 1-1 U.S. Retail Dollar Sales of Cosmeceuticals Through Mass and Prestige Retail Channels, by Product Category, 2003-2012* (in million $)
    
    
  • The Age Picture: Boomers Just One Key Audience
    
    
  • Boomers a Big Factor—Until They Reach 60
    
    
  • Wow! Gen-Xers Are Grandparents!
    
    
  • Gen-Yers in Slower-Growing Age Brackets
    
    
  • Even Babies Use Cosmeceuticals
    
    
  • Table 1-2 Projected U.S. Population, by Age Bracket, 2007-2015* (in thousands)
    
    
  • Pop Prestige Folding in With Retail Blur
    
    
  • Men Still Lured by Universal Condition/Concern Positionings
    
    
  • Endless New Compounds From Ingredients Suppliers
    
    
  • Luxe HBC and the Tougher National Economy
    
    
  • Market Share
    
    
  • J&J Controls Nearly Half of Anti-Acne Segment
    
    
  • P&G and Olay Steamroll the Competition in Anti-Aging Facial Preps
    
    
  • J&J Leads in Anti-Aging Body Preps, While L’Oreal Zaps P&G
    
    
  • In Facial Cleansers J&J and P&G Well Ahead of the Pack
    
    
  • Reckitt Benckiser Widens Lead in Fade Cream/Lightener Segment
    
    
  • In Hand & Body Lotions, J&J Displaces Unilever for Top Spot
    
    
  • J&J Holds Steady in Moisturizers, While P&G Takes a Dive
    
    
  • Schering-Plough Still Suncare King, But in Landscape of Small Shifts
    
    
  • P&G Continues to Dominate Hair Conditioner Scene
    
    
  • J&J Acquires Ruling Hair-Growth Brand Rogaine
    
    
  • Anti-Aging Products, Home Medical Procedures at Cosmeceutical Fore
    
    
  • The Cosmeceuticals Consumer
    
    
  • Table 1-3 U.S. Adult Users of Cosmeceuticals, by Category and Segment, 2007 (past 12 months)

Chapter 2 Trends and Opportunities

• HIGHLIGHTS
  
  
• Trends and Opportunities
  
  
  
  
  
  • Practically Every Product Will Be Cosmeceutical
    
    
  • The Big Blur of Channel Overlap
    
    
  • Heed the Speed of Channel Conversion
    
    
  • Forget Natural—It’s Organic or Not!
  
  
  
  
• Product Trends
  
  
  
  
  
  • Majority of New Anti-Aging Products Worldwide Are Skincare-Oriented
    
    
  • Table 2-1 Selected New Introductions of Anti-Aging Products Worldwide, by Product Category, 2006 vs. 2007
    
    
  • Skincare Rules Intros of Anti-Aging Products in the U.S., Too
    
    
  • Table 2-2 Selected New Introductions of Anti-Aging Products in the United States, by Product Category, 2006 vs. 2007
    
    
  • Anti-Aging Products, Home Medical Procedures at Cosmeceutical Fore
    
    
  • Table 2-3 Selected New Introductions of Cosmeceuticals, 2007-2008
  
  
  
  
• Consumer Advertising Positioning
  
  
  
  
  
  • The Simple Beauty Shot’s Still Okay, But ...
    
    
  • An Astonishing Array of Ad Positionings
    
    
  • Skincare
    
    
  • Haircare
    
    
  • Color Cosmetics

Chapter 3 The Market

• Market Size and Growth
  
  
  
  
  
  • Cosmeceuticals Shatter $16 Billion Mark in 2007
    
    
  • All Three Categories Post Double-Digit Total Growth for 2003-2007
    
    
  • Table 3-1 U.S. Retail Dollar Sales of Cosmeceuticals Through Mass and Prestige Retail Channels, by Product Category, 2003-2007 (in million $)
    
    
  • Skincare in Smooth Glide to $8.9 Billion
    
    
  • Anti-Aging Products Are Star Skincare Segment
    
    
  • Table 3-2 U.S. Retail Dollar Sales of Cosmeceutical Skincare Products, by Segment and Sales Channel, 2003-2007 (in million $)
    
    
  • Makeup Category Flourishes, Valued at $3.7 Billion
    
    
  • Table 3-3 U.S. Retail Dollar Sales of Cosmeceutical Makeup, by Sales Channel, 2003-2007 (in million $)
    
    
  • Haircare Category Fluffs to $3.6 Billion
    
    
  • Conditioner and Shampoo Climb, Hair Growth Dives and Rallies
    
    
  • Table 3-4 U.S. Retail Dollar Sales of Cosmeceutical Haircare Products, by Segment and Sales Channel, 2003-2007 (in million $)
    
    
  • Market Share
    
    
  • Skincare Steals a Little Share from Makeup and Haircare
    
    
  • Mass Channel Wins a Share-Point from Prestige
    
    
  • Table 3-5 Share of U.S. Retail Dollar Sales of Cosmeceuticals by Category, Segment and Sales Channel, 2004 vs. 2007
    
    
  • Market Context
    
    
  • Cosmeceutical Sales Keep Up Pace in 2003-2007 vs. 2001-2005
    
    
  • World Beauty vs. U.S. Beauty vs. U.S. Cosmeceutical Sales
    
    
  • Table 3-6 U.S. Retail Dollar Sales of Cosmeceuticals vs. Overall Beauty Market, by Category, 2007 (in million $)
    
    
  • Cosmeceuticals Overlap Natural/Organic Personal HBC
    
    
  • Value of Ingredients to Reach Almost $1.0 Billion in 2010
  
  
  
  
• Factors in Future Growth
  
  
  
  
  
  • Exploding Cosmeceutical Assortment Drives Sales
    
    
  • The Age Picture: Boomers Just One Key Audience
    
    
  • Boomers a Big Factor—Until They Reach 60
    
    
  • Wow! Gen-Xers Are Grandparents!
    
    
  • Gen-Yers in Slower-Growing Age Brackets
    
    
  • Even Babies Use Cosmeceuticals
    
    
  • Table 3-7 Projected U.S. Population, by Age Bracket, 2007-2015* (in thousands)
    
    
  • Plastic Surgery Trends: Cosmeceuticals Compete with Minimally-Invasive Procedures
    
    
  • Table 3-8 Selected Statistics on U.S. Plastic Surgery Procedures, 2007 (in thousands)
    
    
  • Pop Prestige Folding in With Retail Blur
    
    
  • Fear of Skin Cancer
    
    
  • Men Still Lured by Universal Condition/Concern Positionings
    
    
  • Endless New Compounds From Ingredient Suppliers
    
    
  • Luxe HBC and the Tougher National Economy
    
    
  • Projected Sales
    
    
    
    
    
    • Cosmeceuticals in Rush to $21 Billion by 2012
      
      
    • Skincare to Continue Smooth Glide to $12 Billion
      
      
    • Makeup to Approach a Glowing $5 Billion
      
      
    • Haircare Defeats Commodity Image on the Way to $5 Billion
      
      
    • Table 3-9 Projected U.S. Retail Dollar Sales of Cosmeceuticals Through Mass and Prestige Retail Channels, by Product Category, 2007-2012 (in million $)

Chapter 4 The Marketers

• HIGHLIGHTS
  
  
• The Marketers
  
  
  
  
  
  • Of 800-1,000 Marketers, Just 117 Have Notable Brand Share in Mass
    
    
  • Table 4-1 Cosmeceutical Marketers Achieving Significant Share* of Retail
    
    
  • Dollar Sales in Mass Channels, by Category and Selected Product Segments, 2004 vs. 2007
    
    
  • Types of Companies Active in Cosmeceuticals
  
  
  
  
• Marketer and Brand Share
  
  
  
  
  
  • IRI Data Cover Sales Through Mass Retail Channels
    
    
  • J&J Controls Nearly Half of Anti-Acne Segment
    
    
  • Table 4-2 Share of U.S. Retail Dollar Sales of Anti-Acne Preparations in Mass Channels, by Marketer and Brand, 2007
    
    
  • P&G and Olay Steamroll the Competition in Anti-Aging Facial Preps
    
    
  • Table 4-3 Share of U.S. Retail Dollar Sales of Anti-Aging Facial Preparations in Mass Channels, by Marketer and Brand, 2005 vs. 2007
    
    
  • J&J Leads in Anti-Aging Body Preps, While L’Oreal Zaps P&G
    
    
  • Table 4-4 Share of U.S. Retail Dollar Sales of Anti-Aging Body Preparations in Mass Channels, by Marketer and Brand, 2005 vs. 2007
    
    
  • In Facial Cleansers, J&J and P&G Well Ahead of the Pack
    
    
  • Table 4-5 Share of U.S. Retail Dollar Sales of Facial Cleansers in Mass Channels, by Marketer and Brand, 2005 vs. 2007
    
    
  • Reckitt Benckiser Widens Lead in Fade Cream/Lightener Segment
    
    
  • Table 4-6 Share of U.S. Retail Dollar Sales of Fade/Lightening Creams in Mass Channels, by Marketer and Brand, 2005 vs. 2007
    
    
  • Table 4-7 Share of U.S. Retail Dollar Sales of Hand & Body Lotions in Mass Channels, by Marketer and Brand, 2005 vs. 2007
    
    
  • J&J Holds Steady in Moisturizers, While P&G Takes a Dive
    
    
  • Table 4-8 Share of U.S. Retail Dollar Sales of Facial Moisturizers in Mass Channels, by Marketer and Brand, 2005 vs. 2007
    
    
  • Schering-Plough Still Suncare King, But in Landscape of Small Shifts
    
    
  • Table 4-9 Share of U.S. Retail Dollar Sales of Suncare Products in Mass Channels, by Marketer and Brand, 2005 vs. 2007
    
    
  • P&G Continues to Dominate Hair Conditioner Scene
    
    
  • Table 4-10 Share of U.S. Retail Dollar Sales of Hair Conditioners in Mass Channels, by Marketer and Brand, 2005 vs. 2007
    
    
  • J&J Acquires Ruling Hair Growth Brand Rogaine
    
    
  • Table 4-11 Share of U.S. Retail Dollar Sales of Hair Growth Preparations in Mass Channels, by Marketer and Brand, 2005 vs. 2007
  
  
  
  
• The Competitive Situation
  
  
  
  
  
  • Cosmeceutical Biz Morphs Along with Retail Channels, Brand Positionings
    
    
  • Key Acquisitions Overlap the Natural/Organic Sphere
    
    
  • Table 4-12 Selected Acquisitions Relevant to the U.S. Cosmeceuticals Market, 2002-2007
    
    
  • Nine Marketers Profiled
  
  
  
  
• Competitive Profile: Estee Lauder/Aveda
  
  
  
  
  
  • Net Sales at Record $7 Billion in Fiscal 2007
    
    
  • Strong Outlook for FY2008
    
    
  • Estee Lauder Amassed Prestige Brands, Then Retooled to Be More Populist
    
    
  • Natural/Organic Aveda Focused on Haircare
    
    
  • Estee Acquires Ojon
    
    
  • A 28th Brand Is Prestige and “Made for TV”
  
  
  
  
• Competitive Profile: Guthy-Renker/Proactiv
  
  
  
  
  
  • Sales of $1.5 Billion-Plus in 2006
    
    
  • Two Main Positions: “Cosmeceuticalist” and Direct Sales Media Master
  
  
  
  
• Competitive Profile: Hain Celestial Group
  
  
  
  
  
  • Net Sales of $900 Million in Fiscal 2007
    
    
  • Outlook for FY2008 Very Good
    
    
  • Cosmeceutical Benefit Pivots on Botanicals
    
    
  • Straddling Mass and Natural Channels Since 1959
    
    
  • Personal Care Brand Roster Tripled in 2004-2007
    
    
  • SKU Rationalization
    
    
  • Many Other Brands Are Household Names
  
  
  
  
• Competitive Profile: Johnson & Johnson/Neutrogena
  
  
  
  
  
  • Net Sales Leap Past $61 Billion in 2007
    
    
  • J&J Describes Itself as Decentralized
    
    
  • Pfizer Consumer Healthcare and Groupe Vendome Acquisitions
    
    
  • Driving Neutrogena to Keep Pace with Societal Trends
    
    
  • Natural, Then Not
    
    
  • Pitches to Youth
    
    
  • A Dash of Silver
    
    
  • Product Placement in New Media
    
    
  • New J&J Cosmeceuticals
    
    
  • Other Famous J&J Brands
  
  
  
  
• Competitive Profile: Procter & Gamble
  
  
  
  
  
  • Net Sales Jump to $76.5 Billion in Fiscal 2007
    
    
  • Bright Outlook for FY2008
    
    
  • P&G Owns Some of Planet’s Most Popular Brands
    
    
  • Olay the Younger
    
    
  • P&G’s Style of Reaching Teens
    
    
  • P&G Brands Are Household Names
  
  
  
  
• Four Marketers to Watch
  
  
  
  
  
  • Homeopathy, Dermatology, Anthroposophy and Nanotechnology
    
    
  • Korres Natural Products
    
    
  • Murad, Inc.
    
    
  • Weleda AG, Weleda USA subsidiary
    
    
  • Zirh International Corp.
  
  
  
  
• Master Table of Marketers and Brands
  
  
  
  
  
  • Table 4-13 Leading Marketers of Cosmeceuticals and Their Representative Brands

Chapter 5 Distribution and Retail

• HIGHLIGHTS
  
  
• Distribution
  
  
  
  
  
  • Traditional Four-Step, DSD and Direct Sales Paths
    
    
  • P&G Makes Supply Chain Leaner and Meaner
  
  
  
  
• Retail
  
  
  
  
  
  • HBC Margins Improved by More High-End Products in Mix
    
    
  • TotalBeauty Strives to Be a Guide to 4,000 Brands
    
    
  • Natural/Organic Sets Should Inspire—Not Threaten—Cosmeceutical Marketers
  
  
  
  
• Retail Focus: LVMH/Sephora
  
  
  
  
  
  • LVMH Revenues of €16.5 Billion in 2007
    
    
  • Sephora Overview
    
    
  • Malls an Ideal Destination for a Rainbow Demographic
    
    
  • Sephora’s Venture with JCPenney
  
  
  
  
• Retail Focus: Spas with Retail Counters
  
  
  
  
  
  • U.S. Spa Revenues Retreat 3% to $9.4 Billion in 2006
    
    
  • Spas with Retail Counters a Neglected Channel
    
    
  • Marketers Can Exploit Spa-Level Promos

Chapter 6 The Consumer

• HIGHLIGHTS
  
  
• About Simmons Data
  
  
  
  
  
  • What They Are
    
    
  • And How to Use Them
    
    
  • Marketing Regions Defined
    
    
  • The Survey’s Overall Household Gauge
    
    
  • Table 6-1 Projections of the Number and Percentage of U.S. Adults by Demographic Factor, 2007 (in thousands)
    
    
  • Prevalance of Cosmeceutical Usage
    
    
  • Table 6-2 Number and Percentage of U.S. Adults Using Cosmeceuticals, by Category and Segment, 2007 (in thousands, past 12 months)
  
  
  
  
• The Cosmeceutical Mindset
  
  
  
  
  
  • In Search of a Cosmeceutical User Mentality
    
    
  • Table 6-3 Number and Percentage of U.S. Adults Who Strongly Agree with Statements Related to Cosmeceutical Use, 2007 (in thousands)
  
  
  
  
• The Cosmeceutical Skincare Products Consumer
  
  
  
  
  
  • Over 136 Million of Us Moisturize
    
    
  • More Than Half Use “Regular” Moisturizers
    
    
  • Table 6-4 Number of U.S. Adults Using Moisturizers, by Type, 2007 (in thousands, past 12 months)
    
    
  • Lotion the Most Popular Moisturizer Form
    
    
  • Table 6-5 Number of U.S. Adults Using Moisturizers, by Form, 2007 (in thousands, past 12 months)
    
    
  • Nearly 83 Million Moisturize Daily
    
    
  • Table 6-6 Number of U.S. Adults Using Moisturizers, by Frequency of Use, 2007 (in thousands, past 7 days)
    
    
  • Oil of Olay, Vaseline Are Most Widely Used Moisturizer Brands
    
    
  • Table 6-7 Number of U.S. Adults Using Moisturizers, by Brand, 2007 (in thousands, past 12 months)
    
    
  • Moisturizer Use Splintered by Diverse Demographic Skews
    
    
  • Table 6-8 Demographic Factors Favoring Use of Moisturizers, 2007 (in thousands, past 12 months)
    
    
  • Nearly 89 Million Use Facial Cleansing/Medicated Products
    
    
  • Foaming Wash Is Most Popular Form of Cleanser
    
    
  • Table 6-9 Number of U.S. Adults Using Facial Cleansing/Medicated Products, by Form, 2007 (in thousands, past 12 months)
    
    
  • Go Figure: Cleansing the Most Common Motive for Using Cleansers
    
    
  • Table 6-10 Number of U.S. Adults Using Facial Cleansing/Medicated Products, by Reason for Use, 2007 (in thousands, past 12 months)
    
    
  • Olay Is Most Popular Cleanser Brand
    
    
  • Table 6-11 Numbers of U.S. Adults Using Facial Cleansers/Medicated Products, by Brand, 2007 (in thousands, past 12 months)
    
    
  • Broader Age Span, College-Educated and Minorities Mark Cleanser Use
    
    
  • Table 6-12 Demographic Factors Favoring Use of Facial Cleansers/Medicated Products, 2007 (in thousands, past 12 months)
    
    
  • Almost 83 Million Use Suncare Products
    
    
  • Sun Block with SPF 15+ Is Most Used Product Form—By Far
    
    
  • Table 6-13 Number of U.S. Adults Using Suncare Products, by Form, 2007 (in thousands, past 12 months)
    
    
  • Coppertone Dominates Suncare Brand Use
    
    
  • Table 6-14 Number of U.S. Adults Using Suncare Products, by Brand, 2007 (in thousands, past 12 months)
    
    
  • Suncare Product Use Has Affluent Profile
    
    
  • Table 6-15 Demographic Factors Favoring Use of Suncare Products, 2007 (in thousands, past 12 months)
  
  
  
  
• The Cosmeceutical Haircare Products Consumer
  
  
  
  
  
  • Over 105 Million Adults Use Conditioner
    
    
  • Pantene, Suave Are Most Widely Used
    
    
  • Table 6-16 Number of U.S. Adults Using Hair Conditioner, by Brand, 2007 (in thousands, past 12 months)
    
    
  • Conditioner Demographics Skew to Women and Middle Age
    
    
  • Table 6-17 Demographic Factors Favoring Use of Hair Conditioner, 2007 (in thousands, past 12 months)
  
  
  
  
• The Cosmeceutical Makeup Consumer
  
  
  
  
  
  • Little Data on Cosmeceutical Makeup Use
    
    
  • Cover Girl Leads in Blusher and Foundation, Avon in Lipstick
    
    
  • Table 6-18 Number of U.S. Adults* Using Cosmeceutical Makeup, by Brand, 2007 (in thousands, past 12 months)
  
  
  
  
• BIGresearch Data on HBC Shopping
  
  
  
  
  
  • BIG’s Monthly Online Panel Survey
    
    
  • The Big Four: Wal-Mart, CVS, Walgreen’s, Target
    
    
  • Table 6-19 Consumers’ Most Preferred Retail Store for Health & Beauty Care Shopping, by Gender and Generation, 2007
    
    
  • Discounters Are Favorite Channel
    
    
  • Table 6-20 Consumers’ Most Preferred Retail Channel for Health & Beauty Care Shopping, by Gender and Generation, 2007